A recent article published by Brides magazine provided soon-to-be newlyweds with some shaky advice about how to find an experienced wedding photographer. Although the article has since been modified in the past, the initial edition of the article titled ‘ The Top 10 Questions You Should Ask Your Wedding Photographer included the advice that consumers should select a photographer that utilizes a Canon or Nikon camera.
This article will provide tips on how to choose the best wedding photographer. But it was previously accompanied by the following paragraph on questions to ask prospective photographers:
What type and model of device do you employ?
“They should say either Cannon [sic] or Nikon, which are the most readily available professional cameras available,” Tiffani says. Tiffani. “However there are professional and amateur cameras under both brands. A professional camera must be a full-format camera. This ensures that you print large-scale images easily. ”
Brides has since revised the article, but without a note from an editor to say, “Ideally the photographer you choose to make use of a professional camera,” Matsuura recommends.
I typically shoot a wedding with two full-frame DSLRs and then switch between 35mm lens, 50mm and 85mm (with the 80-200mm F2.8 being used only for the ceremony). Incorporating Leica Q to my collection Leica Q to the mix could have added some extra weight certain, but I was carrying three camera instead of just two. It also meant virtually no possibility of swapping lenses as I could get the 35mm focal range mostly covered by the Q’s superb 28mm F1.7 Summilux lens. It also allowed me to maintain the 85mm and 50mm lenses glued with the cameras. It was the result that I might have appeared somewhat ridiculous to the majority of the guests, however the fact that I had three F1.7-and-wider lenses in my arsenal helped me get the most out of the situation that I encountered.
The Q was able to keep the focus of the subject’s head in spite of dim lighting and low contrast. What is the reason why all CDAF systems do this? Photo taken by Carey Rose, processed to taste Raw. F1.7 | 1/125 | ISO 2500
I set my Q camera to record with aperture priority, using auto ISO, and the shutter speed must be a minimum between 1/60 and 1/250 based on the conditions. I set it to Single-AF mode and then recorded it in RAW+JPEG for all of it.
What was successful, and what wasn’t?
The Q’s autofocus system isn’t just accurate, it’s also very close to being quick to detect phase (even even though it’s a contrast detection system). I used it in Single-AF mode for the entire day because it worked perfectly. The four-way controller at the rear of the camera made it easy to change focal point’s position. And due to the focal length of 28mm and focus-andrecompose-based shooting, it did not make much of an impact on crucial sharpness. When I did want to utilize Face Detection (such as handing the camera to someone who will take the shot) I was a bit disappointed that it to be difficult to go through the menus to alter the focus point. This might be alleviated by assigning something that is autofocus-related to any of the functions that can be customized on the rear of the camera. However, it’s not possible to do so. The menus, however, are well-organized.
Although its DNG files might have less processing power than other systems of cameras, Q will perform well in low lighting when you are attentive to the exposure.
In terms of buttons, the buttons, dials, and controls are all easy to touch using your eye on the finder and have enough positive movement that there’s no doubt of whether you’ve hit something. This is a good starting point. For cameras that are so focused on stills, it is nice to have, at the very least, the option of changing the button for ‘Movie Record’ to another function. Additionally, if you’re shooting using Auto-ISO mode, it is possible to adjust the dial for shutter speed to change the minimum shutter speed that you have selected. However, the control dial in the rear shifts from adjusting exposure compensation to controlling the speed of the shutter in 1/3 stop increments. It is possible to mitigate this by assigning the “FN” button to the ‘exposure compensation however, it is nice to have a control dial that could be more consistent or adjustable. Additionally, the LCD and EVF provide you with an accurate preview when you under-expose. Still, in dim lighting, the option of dialing in an intentional over-exposure won’t affect the preview in any way and was an inconvenience rather than a major issue.